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Additional info for Design of Breakwaters
It is assumed that water velocities and accelerations are proportional to the wave particle velocities and accelerations near the structure, which may be evaluated by the wave theories. It is also assumed that wave forces are larger for the run-up than for the run-down. 16. As Blevins, 1977 C23, showed (fig. 1>, the instant of maximum wave forces in a submerged cylinder occurs at an instant at which horizontal acceleration (and consequently the mass forces) is approximately zero. At this moment the horizontal velocity is maximum and vertical velocity is zero.
40. Next, the influence of the core density has been investigated. The influence is best observed by focusing at the generated velocity of porous flow at the internal water table near the slope by means of a hodograph such as shown for wave2 in Fig. 6. 41. From hodographs for all waves the maximum velocities parallel and normal to the slope are obtained. The maximum parallel velocity is extreme at an intermediate wave period, for all cores (Fig. 7a)* Probably, the storage is little for shorter waves, whereas the rush-down is slow for longer waves.
83. 2. Jensen, 0. Juul. A monograph on Rubble Mound Breakwater. Book published by Danish Hydraulic Institute, D e c , 1984. 3. B u r c h a r t h , H . F . E f f e c t o f w a v e s o n o n - s h o r e s t r u c t u r e s . Hydraulic Research Station Wallingford. Summary N o . 4 0 . 4 . B r u u n , P. a n d G u n b a k , A . R . , 1 9 7 7 . S t a b i l i t y o f Sloping S t r u c t u r e s in R e l a t i o n t o £ = t a n a / / H / L R i s k C r i t e r i a in D e sign. Coastal Eng. 1:287-322.